The chef has an affection for peasant meats, odd bits of cow and pig that are yummy, even if the presentation is precious. Slurp-tender beef cheeks from lazy Kobe-style cows might seem too yielding to stack, and yet there they sit, in a Jenga master's pile surrounded by acres of white porcelain. A ham-hock salad of potatoes and green beans is a tasty, almost bistro-style treat. Read our review