Toronto favorite comes to L.A. by way of former employee. Then, a dishwasher, now, nightlife queen Shereen Arazm. She's a name. She gets impatient. Action-packed in the open kitchen, on weekends, front of house is bustling too: line's out the door. Big menu, mostly pizza, pasta. It says "no substitutions." Believe it. To question it is perchance to be screamed at. All part of the charm, we guess.