The most interesting steakhouse in town is New York City-based, irksomely enough. Impeccable broiling on steaks, veal, pork and lamb is enhanced by witty sides: goose-fat-crisped potatoes, soulful kale and collard greens, and truffled spinach barely glossed with cream. A lively wine list, first-rate service and a sexy, retro-burlesque room (not to mention the $20 baked potato) ratchet up the fun.